an experience in Valsamoggia, the star of Emilia Romagna-Michelin style!
a stage at Amerigo 1934 in Savigno
OCT 15, 2022
I was hurtling along the SP 26 in a midnight-blue Audi rental, carving through the Colli Bolognesi. Hairpin turns doubled back on themselves, steep ascents gave way to sudden descents, and everywhere, the vineyards of pignoletto glowed in the fading afternoon light. I was alive. Truly alive. In Valsamoggia.
Road to Savigno
Valsamoggia, a relatively new commune stitched together from a cluster of towns between Bologna and Modena, the hills roll like a living painting: emerald grass, sunburst-orange rooftops catching the last light, and an azure sky so vivid it almost hurts your eyes. This is the brilliance of Emilia-Romagna laid bare.
The food here is equally brilliant. Amerigo 1934, a small trattoria, bottega, and locanda tucked into Savigno—the town famous for white truffles each October—is a touchstone of the valley’s cuisine.
Morta Romagnola Salumi
I had dreamt of working here for years. I never imagined I’d get the chance to stage in a kitchen with Michelin-star pedigree. But ambition, and a little forwardness, can go a long way.
Tortellini
My first visit to Amerigo was back in 2021; I returned in 2022 for dinner. The restaurant sits at the end of the main street, where a mini piazza wraps around the town like a welcome mat. Inside, it’s quiet and intimate: antique wooden tables, rich curtains, white tiles, and an espresso bar that feels like a museum of historical collectibles. My friend from Bologna and I sat outside, awed by a three-page menu of seasonal, locally sourced ingredients. After some agonizing indecision, I settled on the summer tasting menu.
The meal began with upside-down cake studded with yellow tomatoes—sweet, delicate, with a subtle acidity that woke the palate. Potato gnocchi followed: soft pillows showered with scorzone black truffles, sourced just meters away. For the secondi, a leg of Apennine fallow deer smoked with cherry wood, accompanied by wild mushrooms, tubers, and local greens, emerged from the kitchen with quiet majesty. Dessert was deceptively simple: gelato drizzled with tradizionale balsamic. There was nothing flashy, nothing ostentatious—just food that moved you.
I knew then that I needed to learn from these people. Chef Alberto Bettini. I slid into his DMs on Instagram—a little audacious, but polite—and asked if I could stage in his kitchen. He said yes.
My first day began with the dolci: biscotti, crostate, gelati, and breads for the small cohort of hotel guests staying nearby. Claudia, my mentor, is a Bolognese force of nature: patient, meticulous, and pure gold at heart. The kitchen squad—Giacomo, Maria, Roberto (“Drago”), Alessio—and Roberta, the sfoglina, each brought their craft to life. Luca ran the front of house with quiet authority. By Wednesday, it was pasta day.
Tortelli con parmigiano reggiano
Roberta wielded her mattarello like a conductor’s baton, passing down a rhythm learned from her grandmother. Anna, a local with a laugh that could light up a room and a tongue sharper than a chef’s knife, kept the gossip and stories flowing. Together, we made tagliatelle, ravioli di friggione, tortelli ripieni di Parmigiano Reggiano with prosciutto di Mora Romagnola, gnocchi, and tortellini.
TORTELLI RIPIENI DI PARMIGIANO REGGIANO CON. PROSCIUTTO DI MORA COTTO NEL FORNO A LEGNA
Thursday was a symphony of prep: caprino, alchermes, Lambrusco gelato, tigelle, ragù, friggione, veal cheeks braised in Barolo, brodo for the tortellini, bacala, sfoglia lorda, and morels. The kitchen was a Zen state. No stress. No yelling. No ego clashes. Just execution, grace, and a love for food that’s palpable in every gesture. “Is this really a kitchen?” I asked myself. It felt more like a temple.
Tartufi
The kitchen was as organized and smooth running as anything I’ve ever seen. There was no stress, no arguments, no tension. Everything was executed with ease and passion. Service was flawless and quick, chefs were talking, everyone relaxed, no smack talk even! -“was this really a kitchen”? I asked myself, or some kind of zen get together of cooks. I loved every minute.
Caseificio Rosola
My day off, orchestrated by Chef Bettini, remains indelible. I toured Caseificio Rosola, the only producer of Vacca Bianca Modenese Parmigiano Reggiano in the hills of Zocca. I visited Ca’Lumaco, crafting Mora Romagnola prosciutto aged up to four years. And Corte d’Aibo, an agriturismo and organic winery tucked in the Regional Park of the Abbey of Monteveglio. These are the sources behind the magic at Amerigo.
Valsamoggia has me hooked. The hills, the food, the people—they’ve carved themselves into my memory. And I can’t wait for what comes next.