Bologna and Modena Province
Valsamoggia: Where Bologna and Modena Collide in the Best Possible Way
Tucked between the gastronomic giants of Bologna and Modena, Valsamoggia is the kind of place that slips under the radar—until you visit. Then it lingers in your mind like the perfect bowl of tortellini in brodo. This collection of five historic villages (Bazzano, Monteveglio, Castello di Serravalle, Crespellano, and Savigno) is where the rolling hills of Emilia meet a culinary heritage that’s as rich as its landscape.
Valsamoggia doesn’t just sit between two of Italy’s most important food cities—it soaks up the best of both. In Monteveglio, a 12th-century abbey perches on a hilltop, overlooking vineyards that produce Pignoletto, Emilia’s signature white wine. Savigno, known as the “City of Truffles,” is a pilgrimage site for those who live for the earthy aroma of freshly shaved tartufo. And in Bazzano, history and food collide at the 14th-century Rocca dei Bentivoglio fortress, where local enoteche serve plates of crescentine—golden, pillowy fried bread paired with cured meats and soft cheeses.
Where to Eat and Drink in Valsamoggia and the borders of Modena
is more than an agriturismo—it’s a love letter to Emilia-Romagna’s land and traditions. Tucked into the rolling hills of Valsamoggia, Chef Chiara Ognibene honors local flavors with dishes like tagliolini al ragù di prosciutto, a slow-cooked ham sauce clinging to delicate strands of pasta, or the vibrant tortellini verde di ricotta, burro salato di montagna ed erbe aromatiche, where the richness of mountain butter meets fragrant herbs. Then there’s the cotoletta alla bolognese con patate di Bologna, golden, indulgent, and unapologetically decadent. Her father, Antonio Ognibene, tends to the vineyards, producing natural wines that capture the region’s essence—crisp Pignoletto, structured Negrettino, and a handful of other bottles worth lingering over. Just down the road, the Abbey of Monteveglio, a 12th-century Romanesque gem, stands as a quiet guardian of history. But the real pilgrimage here is to the table—where every bite tells a story of passion, patience, and place.
A Timeless Trattoria with a Michelin Star : For nearly a century, Trattoria da Amerigo 1934 – Trattoria da Amerigo 1934 – Savigno, BO: A Michelin-starred establishment that has been a culinary landmark since 1934. Under the stewardship of third-generation owner and chef Alberto Bettini, the trattoria masterfully balances rustic charm with refined execution, offering an authentic taste of the Colli Bolognesi region.
The menu is a celebration of local flavors, featuring traditional dishes such as:
• Tagliatelle al Ragù: Handmade ribbon pasta served with a rich meat sauce, exemplifying Bolognese culinary tradition.
• Tortellini in Brodo di Gallina Vecchia: Delicate pasta parcels filled with seasoned meats, served in an aromatic old hen broth.
• Tortelli Ripieni di Parmigiano Reggiano con Prosciutto di Mora Cotto nel Forno a Legna: Pasta filled with aged Parmesan cheese, accompanied by wood-oven-cooked Mora Romagnola prosciutto.
• Gnocchi di Patate al Tartufo Scorzone: Pillowy potato dumplings enhanced with the earthy aroma of summer truffle.
The secondi piatti (main courses) further showcase the region’s culinary heritage:
• Guancia di Vitella Brasata al Barbera con Purè e Piccolo Fritto di Cipolla Rossa: Tender veal cheek braised in Barbera wine, served with creamy mashed potatoes and a side of lightly fried red onions.
• Coniglio all’Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena con Patate Schiacciate ed Insalata Rustica: Succulent rabbit prepared with traditional Modena balsamic vinegar, accompanied by smashed potatoes and a rustic salad.
• L’Uovo Amerigo al Tartufo Scorzone: Amerigo’s signature poached egg dish, garnished with summer truffle, offering a harmonious blend of simplicity and luxury.
Adjacent to the trattoria, the Bottega offers house-made specialties, allowing guests to take home a piece of their culinary experience. For those wishing to extend their stay, the Locanda provides vintage-inspired rooms, blending comfort with timeless elegance. At Trattoria da Amerigo 1934, tradition is not merely preserved but continually perfected, offering guests an immersive journey into the heart of Emilian cuisine.
• La Lumira – Castelfranco Emilia, MO – Celebrated for its traditional Emilian dishes, particularly their renowned tortellini.
Il Cantacucco – Zocca, MO
Nestled in the Apennines, Il Cantacucco has been serving soulful mountain cuisine for over 50 years. This is the kind of place where locals linger over tortelloni burro e salvia, crescentine with cured meats, and slow-cooked wild game, all in a cozy, wood-paneled dining room. Timeless, unpretentious, and absolutely worth the trip.
• Locanda del Feudo – Castelvetro di Modena, MO – A boutique hotel with an acclaimed restaurant, offering gourmet cuisine in an intimate setting.
• Agriturismo Ca’ Lunati – A charming countryside agriturismo in Castello di Serravalle, offering a true farm-to-table experience with seasonal menus, homemade products, and stunning views of the surrounding hills. It was awarded Best Restaurant on the TV show 4 Ristoranti.
• Il Cavallino – Maranello, MO – A historic restaurant associated with Ferrari, serving traditional Italian dishes in a refined ambiance.
• Irina Pizzeria e Trattoria – Maranello, MO – Known for its wood-fired pizzas and classic Italian comfort food.
• Opera 02 – Levizzano Rangone, MO – A resort and restaurant set amidst vineyards, offering modern Italian cuisine and stunning views.
Rustic Tables & Colli Kitchens: Where to Eat Around Bologna Province (BO)
A curated collection of agriturismi, osterie, and trattorie in the hills and heartlands of Bologna province—where time slows, portions comfort, and every dish carries the soul of Emilia-Romagna.
• Antica Trattoria La Grotta dal 1918 – Sasso Marconi, BO – Established in 1918, this trattoria is known for its traditional dishes and historic charm.
• Trattoria Dai Mugnai – Monteveglio, BO – A cozy trattoria offering classic Bolognese cuisine in a welcoming environment.
Enoteca La Zaira – Bazzano, BO – A charming wine bar and restaurant offering a curated selection of regional wines and classic Italian dishes.
• Ciapàso – Bazzano, BO – A casual eatery and wine shop, known for its relaxed atmosphere-Ciapaso means “take it easy” in Emilian dialect- has a selection orto del banco verdure to go, cottoletta Bolognese, Costina*ribs and namely artisanal burgers with meat from famed macelleria in Monteveglio-Tiziano e Paolo
• Madea Cucina e Natura – Valsamoggia, BO – A restaurant focusing on natural and organic ingredients, offering a contemporary dining experience.
Fattoria Zivieri – Sasso Marconi, BO
A countryside butchery turned ristorante and agriturismo, Fattoria Ziviericelebrates high-quality local meats—think dry-aged beef, game, and heritage breeds (double-check if it’s Cinta Senese). Start with the battuta di manzo or the house-cured salumi, and if the stars align, don’t miss the pork ribs slow-cooked in their wood oven. Sit under the pergola, sip something local, and enjoy the quiet thunder of good meat done right.
A modern rustic hideaway just outside Bologna, Fienile 12 plays where fine dining flirts with farmhouse charm. The tasting menu is the move—expect reimagined classics like passatelli with wild herbs, or a slow-cooked pork belly with fermented apple that tastes like the countryside got a culinary degree.
La Roverella – Zola Predosa, BO
This agriturismo hums with the rhythm of real life—fresh pasta hand-rolled daily, sauces that simmer forever, and hospitality that feels like Sunday lunch at nonna’s. Order the tortelloni with ricotta and herbs, or anything that involves ragù. It’s rustic and slow in all the right ways.
Osteria Clò Filomena – Valsamoggia, BO
A soulful osteria tucked in the Bolognese hills, where the tagliatelle al ragùmight be the most honest you’ve had in years. Local, seasonal, and unfussy—in the best way. The crescentine with cured meats and squacquerone is required eating. Everything tastes like someone still cares.
Corte d’Aibo – Monteveglio, BO
An organic vineyard and agriturismo serving food with roots and flair. Here, plant-forward cooking meets farmhouse elegance: try the fresh gnocchi with pumpkin and sage, or their artful take on eggplant parmigiana. Sip their biodynamic Pignoletto and stay for sunset.
No-frills and all heart, Ca’ dei Rio is the kind of place where the kitchen knows its soil. Expect generous plates of handmade tortelloni, grilled meats, and the full Emilia antipasto treatment—tigelle with lardo and pickled vegetables, served with a jug of house wine and a view of the trees.
Trattoria del Borgo – Monteveglio Alto, BO
Perched on a medieval ridge in the Colli Bolognesi, this trattoria is a post-hike reward disguised as a restaurant. Gramigna alla salsiccia, crescentine, and a slice of tenerina finish the job. The views are postcard-perfect, and the food is exactly what you hoped Emilia-Romagna would taste like.
Locanda Pincelli – Molinella, BO
Where fine dining meets rural comfort. Locanda Pincelli leans into the seasons with homemade pastas like tortelli stuffed with leeks and potato, and mains that surprise—think duck breast with cherries and Lambrusco jus. A low-key gem with high-level flavor.
Guardastelle – Monte San Pietro, BO
Romantic views and soulful cooking on a hill above Bologna. Start with the antipasto misto della casa, then move into dishes like ravioli with smoked ricotta and buttered sage, or a falling-apart beef cheek you’ll think about later. One for the lovers and the long-lunchers.
